Introduction
The Hakone Checkpoint was a crucial inspection point on the Tokaido, the main highway connecting Tokyo and Kyoto during the Edo period. Due to its unique geographical location and historical significance, the Hakone Checkpoint offers an excellent window into understanding traffic control in feudal Japan. Today, visitors can explore a well-preserved section of the old Tokaido and a reconstructed Hakone Checkpoint between Moto-Hakone and Hakone-machi along Lake Ashinoko, immersing themselves in the historical atmosphere of the Edo period.
Key Information
- Location: Hakone Town, Kanagawa Prefecture
- Main Highlights: Reconstructed Hakone Checkpoint, Old Tokaido Remnants, Hakone Sekisho Shiryokan (Museum)
- Recommended Visit Duration: 2-3 hours
- Ideal for: History enthusiasts, cultural explorers, nature lovers
Historical Background
The Hakone Checkpoint was established in 1619 as a crucial barrier to control the flow of people and goods in and out of Edo (present-day Tokyo) by the Tokugawa Shogunate. Due to the mountainous terrain of the Hakone region and the lack of alternative routes, this checkpoint became particularly important. It was responsible for inspecting travelers’ passes, preventing the smuggling of weapons, and stopping the escape of noble women.
In 2007, after three years of meticulous restoration, the Hakone Checkpoint was reconstructed to its original form, including gates, fences, housing for officials and soldiers, a prison chamber, and a watchtower. This reconstruction provides visitors with an excellent opportunity to deeply understand the social management system of the Edo period.
Main Attractions
Reconstructed Hakone Checkpoint
The reconstructed Hakone Checkpoint is the core of the entire site. It faithfully reproduces the original appearance of the Edo period checkpoint, including imposing gates, tall fences, residences for officials and foot soldiers, a gloomy prison, and a commanding watchtower. Visitors can experience firsthand the process of passing through the checkpoint, feeling the strict control of population movement during the Edo period.
Each building within the checkpoint has been carefully restored, showcasing the architectural style and way of life of the time. The official residences display everyday items from the Edo period, allowing visitors to feel as if they’ve traveled back in time 300 years. The prison is particularly noteworthy, its dark and cramped environment making one reflect on the harshness of the ancient judicial system.
The watchtower is the highest point of the checkpoint. Climbing to the top offers a panoramic view of the entire checkpoint area and the beautiful scenery of Lake Ashinoko. It’s also the best spot to understand the strategic position of the checkpoint, giving visitors a deeper appreciation of why the Hakone Checkpoint was so important during the Edo period.
Hakone Sekisho Shiryokan (Museum)
Located next to the reconstructed checkpoint area, the Hakone Sekisho Shiryokan is an important place to gain an in-depth understanding of the history and function of the Hakone Checkpoint. The museum displays a large collection of historical artifacts and materials related to the checkpoint, including ancient travel permits, weapons, and maps of the time.
Through these exhibits, visitors can learn about the daily operations of the checkpoint and its important role in social management during the Edo period. The museum also features detailed explanatory panels and multimedia displays to help visitors better understand the historical context and significance of the exhibits.
The museum not only showcases the history of the Hakone Checkpoint but also introduces the development history of the entire Tokaido, giving visitors a comprehensive understanding of the transportation system in the Edo period. This is a must-visit place for history enthusiasts.
Old Tokaido Remnants
Between Moto-Hakone and Hakone-machi, a section of the old Tokaido is preserved. This path is lined with tall cedar trees, and walking along it feels like stepping back several centuries. The scenery here is not only historically significant but also a paradise for photography enthusiasts.
Particularly recommended is the section from Moto-Hakone to Hatajuku, which is about 2.7 kilometers long and takes about 75-100 minutes to walk. This section retains part of the original stone pavement and is the best choice for experiencing the arduous journey of ancient travelers.
The Amazake Chaya along the way is a must-visit rest stop. This tea house, with hundreds of years of history, is still in operation, offering amazake (a sweet rice wine with low or no alcohol content) and various Japanese snacks. Taking a break here and tasting traditional food will add flavor to your Hakone journey.
Best Time to Visit
The Hakone Checkpoint is open all year round, with each season offering its unique charm. However, considering comfort and scenery, here are some recommended visiting periods:
- Spring (late March – May): Cherry blossoms are in full bloom, and the climate is pleasant, ideal for outdoor activities.
- Autumn (October – November): The maple leaves turn red across the mountains, offering spectacular views and great hiking weather.
- Winter (December – February): If you’re lucky to catch a snowy day, the snow-covered checkpoint is particularly beautiful, but remember to dress warmly.
Avoid Japanese holidays like Golden Week (late April – early May) and Obon Festival (mid-August) for a quieter visiting experience.
Transportation Guide
- From Tokyo:
- Take the Shinkansen or Odakyu Line to Odawara Station
- From Odawara, transfer to the Hakone Tozan Railway to Hakone-Yumoto Station
- At Hakone-Yumoto Station, take the Hakone Tozan Bus H line to Hakone-machi Station (about 40 minutes, 1080 yen)
- From Hakone-machi Station:
- It’s about a 5-minute walk to the Hakone Checkpoint
- Old Tokaido Hiking:
- Hakone Tozan Bus K line runs along the Old Tokaido route, with two buses per hour
- From Hakone-Yumoto to Hatajuku Station is about 20 minutes (410 yen), to Amazake Chaya is about 25 minutes (710 yen)
Note: Purchasing a Hakone Free Pass allows unlimited use of most public transportation in the area, which is very convenient.
Opening Hours and Admission Fees
Hakone Checkpoint:
- Opening Hours: 9:00-17:00 (until 16:30 from December to February)
- Admission: 500 yen (400 yen with Hakone Free Pass)
- Open all year round
Amazake Chaya:
- Business Hours: 7:00-17:30 (last order at 17:00)
- Open all year round
Visitor Tips
- Wear comfortable walking shoes, especially if you plan to hike the old road.
- Prepare sun protection and insect repellent, especially in summer.
- Bring enough cash, as some small shops may not accept credit cards.
- Allow enough time to experience slowly, don’t rush.
- Try wearing a kimono when visiting the checkpoint to add a historical feel (rentals available nearby).
- Check the weather forecast and bring rain gear if necessary.
- Purchase a Hakone Free Pass to save on transportation costs.
Official Websites
Conclusion
The Hakone Checkpoint and Old Tokaido are not only windows into the history of Japan’s Edo period but also excellent places to experience Japan’s natural beauty. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, cultural explorer, or nature lover, this place will bring you a unique and unforgettable experience. Walking along the old road and passing through the checkpoint feels like traveling back in time, allowing you to deeply experience Japan’s past and present. We strongly recommend adding the Hakone Checkpoint to your Japan travel itinerary to personally experience this wonderful journey through time!